Central Costa Rica
Less than a two-hour drive from the capital city of San Jose, Costa Rica’s central coast is the most accessible, most established, most tourist-oriented zone in the country. There’s dozens of places to stay in Playa Hermosa for surfers on every budget, so if you’re looking for an easy, low-maintenance, self-contained surf trip, this is probably your best bet. The beachbreaks around Jaco are generally soft, while the Playa Hermosa/Tulin zone caters more to the intermediate-advanced crowd. To the south of Hermosa, Esterillos is another decent, user-friendly beachbreak with some added rivermouth oomph and creepiness.
The Waves
Playa Hermosa
Often referred to as the most consistent beachbreak in Costa Rica, Playa Hermosa is indeed a classic setup: four miles of scalloped black sand, fairly deep water offshore, and open exposure to just about any swell except northwest, though it shows its true face on a solid south. It's also one of the closest and most accessible beaches to San Jose, so you can expect crowds. Fortunately, four miles is a pretty long way -- especially with shifting A-frames and a strong side current -- so you can generally find an uncrowded peak somewhere on its stretch. As you head south toward Tulin, the crowds start to thin out. This is where you can go to escape the glamour-seekers at the main beach. Drive farther toward Esterillos for more of a wide open experience. *WORLD SURFING RESERVE* This wave sits in a protected surf ecosystem — preserving the coastline, culture, and access that keep it working. Here's why this break matters.
Playa Esterillos
Esterillos is one of the last bastions of less developed (although recent construction projects threaten this status) surf rich areas in Costa Rica. Esterillos Oeste (West) has a wide range of waves for any type of surfer, from beginner to pro. This is a south-facing beach with bits of reef, which mixes into a small sand bay and out into miles upon miles of beachbreak. When Esterillos Oeste is good, several variations of waves will light up and everyone within striking distance descends upon the A-frame peaks on offer.Esterillos' peaks are shaped by a mix of sandbars and reef. Incoming tide and outgoing tide will dawn the death of one peak and unveil a new, differently shaped peak not far away. Conditions change fast here and local knowledge becomes integral. On the northwest end of the beach, there are several reefs that break calmly, mimicking a day in Waikiki or Cowells. Local and visiting longboarders often get rides from the outside reef all the way to the shorepound. As the swell increases, the wave begins to build into a long wall, beginning from the outside. Then, on really big swells, which are most prominent between May and October, several outside reefs wake up for those looking to do some tow surfing.The beachbreaks in Esterillos Oeste work well on an incoming tide. Also, because of the way the current exits over the sand bottom, you will encounter a series of very hollow A-frame peaks, normally referred to as El Pico. El Pico can dish out what looks like a perfect combo swell series of peaks. This is also the stomping ground of some of the most talented surfers in Costa Rica, bringing a full bag of tricks that can humble even the most well versed surfers.Moving farther south from Esterillos Centro to Bejuco lay a boundless variety of open ocean beachbreaks, which will unravel hollow and photogenic A-frames before a desolate background. Really, each beach has its day, but on a medium-sized swell and incoming tide near a rivermouth, you are almost guaranteed a diverse sampling of beachbreak bliss.On big swells, Esterillos Oeste generally turns into a washing machine that generates a current that will deposit you in compromising places. In this situation, there are a handful of nearby reefs in the Jaco area that will handle the size, minus the chaos. On smaller days, when Esterillos Oeste becomes ripple, the open beachbreaks to the south are swell magnets and tend to be surprisingly surfable, even on microscopic swells. Playa Hermosa to the north is also a great option for a different style beachbreak.
Warm water, good food, very clean ocean – it’s a good place to go surf. The people are nice, they don’t want to fight with you over waves.
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Costa Rica According To...
Carlos
Munoz
Local hero talks local vibes, variety of waves, and the Pura Vida spirit.
What makes Costa Rica a special destination for surfers?
Costa Rica is blessed on both sides, the Caribbean and the Pacific, and there’s waves all year long. Warm water, good food, very clean ocean – it’s a good place to go surf. The people are nice, they don’t want to fight with you over waves. You will connect to nature. It has a lot of good things.
What kind of waves can visiting surfers expect?
If you’re an expert surfer there are plenty of options. From Pavones, which is only lefts to Matapolo, which is only rights, to surfing beachbreaks all by yourself. There are reefs, waves for airs. If you want to surf something offshore you can go to the north by Tamarindo, there’s Marbella and Playa Negra. You can go to Witches Rock. You like heavy slabs, you go to the Caribbean side. There are waves of consequence. If you want to get better in different types of waves, Costa Rica is a good place to go. There’s a lot of variation. A little bit of driving and you can find some amazing waves.
What’s the vibe?
Costa Rica is a place where there is a lot of different cultures. We have Americans, we have people from Israel, Argentina, Brazil…it’s a big mix. If you find yourself amongst the locals, they pretty much like to share. They like the good vibes. One thing that I’ve found is that when I’m around people who are learning, I get excited for them. I get excited for the moment they’re living in—when you’re standing up for the first time or turning for the first time or get your first barrel—I get excited and like to cheer for them. And I feel like most Costa Ricans are like this. We like to share and get excited and cheer when people have fun here.
What should surfers bring?
Bring three boards if you can. One epoxy, just in case you have to do some groveling. And you should bring a step-up. I think sometimes people underestimate how strong the waves get here. And then your regular board. If you can only bring two leave the epoxy at home. You should bring an umbrella in case it’s too sunny or too rainy. A lot of sunscreen. And bring the good vibes. You will find good waves, for sure.
When is the best time to score?
The Caribbean is similar to Hawaii. From December to March, you can find the storms that make the waves over there. It’s pretty heavy. It’s slabby and the energy is a lot different in the Caribbean compared to the Pacific. Also, the Caribbean has reefs, so during those months you can get some really good waves if you are in the right spot. The Caribbean and Pacific are kind of opposite—if it’s raining on the Pacific side, it will be sunny on the Caribbean side.
Then, right when it gets to March, the south swells start to hit on the Pacific side and you start getting lots of lefts. The sandbars and points get really good. When the southwests start to hit in April, May and June you probably have the best conditions on the Pacific side. The winter is a great time for learning. It’s smaller and more gentle. In the rainy season, the only thing is sometimes the water can get a little dirty and the rain doesn’t stop, but the waves are still heavy.
What else is there to do when you’re not surfing?
I just went to visit this place called Arenal for the first time in my life. Man, it’s beautiful. I couldn’t believe it. The mountains, the nature, the hot springs, the volcano…it’s a really incredible experience. There are a lot of trails to walk. You can go to national parks and look for birds and animals. Costa Rica is one of those places that has a lot of reserves, and if you like wild nature, it’s very beautiful. There are a lot of retreats where people like to have a quiet place to go and reconnect with the earth. It’s a very open place for many things.
What’s your favorite local cuisine?
You have all types of good. Gastronomy is very popular in Costa Rica. There are beautiful restaurants. I love gallo pinto. It’s rice and beans, but they have a way of cooking it that’s very good. We mainly eat that for breakfast with eggs, avocado, platano, sour cream. That’s my favorite. We also eat rice and beans with different kinds of meat and fish and vegetables. Handmade tortillas, they have a very particular way of making them. That’s pretty much the local kind of food. And we have steak and sushi and all the fancy kinds of things, too.
Where can people learn to surf?
For people that are just learning there are a lot of beachbreaks. They can be not so strong, so they are not that hard to surf and the water is warm. And with so many people coming here from all over the world, it is not hard to find somebody to teach you or a surf school to take lessons at. It’s a very gentle place to learn—just watch out for the sun. The sun is not so gentle.
What are some things people should be aware of when it comes to local culture and customs?
If you go to a new place, just try to be careful and be aware of your surroundings. You never know what the intentions are of the people around you. If you are in a place with good people, you will have a great time, but you should always be aware. Costa Rica is very safe and the people are very nice, but you never know. Other than that, enjoy it, bring good vibes, have a good time with the local people and the culture. Share some waves, and respect like always.
Travel Essentials
Culture and customs
With dozens of pay-to-play surf camps peppered along both coasts, this politically stable surf oasis regularly accommodates an ever-growing local surf culture, hordes of visiting surfers of all levels, and countless expats who’ve settled here to live pura vida year-round.
Local scene
The central Pacific coastline of Costa Rica is extremely popular amongst tourists and is therefore one of the country’s most heavily trafficked regions, and the surfing variety flocks here for good reason: year-round consistency. One thing to be aware of is that prices for essentials like food, lodging and entertainment will be a bit higher here than in lesser-developed areas of the country. So, while you might be able to save some cash by bunking at a youth hostel, the restaurants and bars will do their best to part you with your hard-earned cash.
What to bring
Outside of the dry season, it can get pretty wet, and mosquitoes abound from dawn and dusk — so bring some high-quality bug spray along with all your tropical surf trip essentials: warm-water wax, sunscreen, rashies, shades, hats, etc.
Also: Our amazing partners over at FCS have curated a collection of fine products for your next surf trip. Check it here.
How to get there
From Juan Santamaria International Airport in the capital city of San José, it’s about an hour-and-a-half drive to Playa Jaco. Get a rental car, hire a taxi, or take a shuttle bus. After that, you can either stay put in the Jaco/Hermosa/Tulin zone, or adventure up or down the coast in search of less-crowded waves.
Downtime
The shopping and nightlife scene in Jaco is worth checking out for a night or two, but Costa Rica is one of the world’s most ecologically diverse countries, and natural beauty abounds. When you’re not surfing, other activities include zip-lining, ATV jungle or beach tours, exotic bird watching in Carara National Park, crocodile sightings at the famous Crocodile Bridge over the Tarcoles River, encounters with monkeys, sloths and butterflies in Manuel Antonio National Park, horseback rides to a waterfall in the town of Bijagual, sport-fishing charters off the Marriott Marina, and so much more.
Quick Tips
Travel Time
LAX: 6 hrs
JFK: 5 hrs
Heathrow: 11.5 hrs
SYD: 30 hrs +
Connectivity
WiFi connection is expected at hotels, other accommodations, some coffee shops, etc. As far as general cellphone reception, it just depends on how far off-the-grid you decide to venture.
Currency
Costa Rican Colón. At the time of writing, $1 USD is approximately 525 CRC
Avg. cost of...
Cup of coffee: $2.00
Lunch: $7.00
Beer: $3.00
Hotel room: $150.00
Visa Requirements
No visa necessary for US visitors, unless you plan to stay longer than 180 days.
Drinking water quality
In general, tap water is safe to drink in Costa Rica. However, in more rural areas – like the Caribbean side or the southern region – it’s best to stick to bottled water.
Hazards
Heavy rain, crocodiles in the lineup, rough roads, mosquitos, petty theft, board-snapping beachbreaks.
Cash, card, crypto
Although the national currency is the Costa Rica Colón, nearly everywhere accepts USD. It’s always a good idea to have some cash on you, too, so stop by an ATM when in a major city.
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