Waimea Bay

Surf Guide

Waimea's outer waters are very deep and clear of any outer reefs or shoals. As a result, much of the energy of long period swells is refracted away from the Bay by the flanking outer reefs at Alligators and Log Cabins, leaving Waimea in a bit of a swell void. This can make the place appear deceptively calm during the early stages of a big swell, compared to some of the other nearby spots. As the interval falls within the mid-period bands, watch for more swell energy to pour into the Bay. On big and longer period swells, Waimea will actually peak later than some of the other nearby spots of which favor the initial longer period energy. When Waimea starts to work, look for the bay to turn into a massive washing machine, where water floods in along each side of the Bay and a big rip current pulls out to sea in the center. Meanwhile, it's the big waves breaking way out off the top of the point on the northside of the bay that is the world renown spot. In contrast to all this mad aquatic activity going on further inside the bay, the actual takeoff zone can be quite mellow between sets.Rideable waves first begin to break when the surf climbs into the overhead to double overhead-plus zone on a section known as Pinballs -- a lumpy reef almost parallel with the tip of the Bay's north point that can be fun on clean NW swells with a light tradewind blowing. As the swell grows beyond 3-4 times overhead, waves begin to peak and break just inside a big boil 80 yards out past Pinballs, providing a drop, a fat shoulder and some reform shots further in. As the surf increases further, waves will starting breaking on the shallower regions of the true Waimea takeoff area -- a relatively flat lava rock ledge another 50 yards or so outside the boil that lurches abruptly from much deeper water. It's the sudden appearance of this ledge, magnifying the challenge of a late drop, that gives Waimea its characteristic semi-freefall takeoff. The ledge slopes off rapidly to the west but maintains a slight ridge out toward the north, sometimes (particularly on a more northerly angled swell) forming a takeoff spot further out known as Eddie's Peak. After a complex and exhilarating drop, the rider is faced with a flat shoulder and a mountain of whitewater, which can sometimes be pursued into the Pinballs section. Toward the beach, waves will back off and reform into an extremely powerful shorebreak, growing thicker and bigger toward the western end and sometimes showcasing a hideously tempting left barrel.Getting in and out is done through the keyhole, located close to the rocks in the northeast corner of the bay, where the shorebreak is smallest. On smaller days it's a cruise, but will start to require a little timing as it gets bigger. Trying to come in through the shorebreak toward the southern end of the bay is not recommended; several surfers have made the Bay Loop famous (the process of heading right back out to sea and around again in order to nail the keyhole exit).