Northern Baja

What makes Baja California a special destination for surfers?

It’s wild, rugged with exceptionally warm, hospitable people. It has all the elements of what a surf trip should be. In every corner of the peninsula you can find the true essence of Baja, even in Cabo, even in Tijuana, even offshore of Ensenada where you have Todos Santos. It’s pretty remarkable. It’s really interesting. You can go superficial and go where everyone else goes, or you can go triple layer deep and get some real nuggets that no one else gets. All the secrets unfold when you want them to unfold. You have to work for it. If you want to go to Scorpion Bay with 300 of the same people you surf with at Malibu you can. Or if you want to take a little break and go somewhere else you can go find waves. 

What kind of waves can visiting surfers expect?

There is every kind of wave you could want in Baja. From the big waves of Todos to the feathered peaks and sandbars of Northern Baja and some of the world’s best pointbreaks down south. 

What’s the vibe? 

Baja is Baja. You need to be on your toes. You need to be ready and prepared. And you need to be nice to people. Driving faster doesn’t get you there faster. I think what’s really important to remember is the nicer you are to the locals the more you’ll learn about where the good surf is, the more great seafood you’ll eat and all the wonderful stories you’ll have to tell. 

What should surfers bring?

Bring you passport. That’s number one. Don’t forget the passport. In terms of surfboards, you’re going to want something with plenty of volume like a longboard or a fish, there are spots for high-performance shortboards and spots you’ll need a big-wave board. You should be ready for slower point waves, hollow beach breaks and even bigger stuff if that’s what you’re chasing. Make sure your spare tires are good. Make sure you have a first aid kit. You should have a shovel in your car as well. And spend the extra time figuring out where the hospitals are. Have a cell phone that works in Mexico, that’s really important now. Always have plenty of water, not just a few little water bottles, but be prepared with some jerry cans or something. And finally, get a paper map. 

When is the best time to score?

Obviously fall into winter is a magic time down there, but now with what seems to be the extending fall season into January, it’s opened up the window a lot. The last couple of Januarys down there have been magic. For me, it’s always that winter swell season. But those Southern Hemis have their spots. And then there’s hurricane surf on the East Cape in Southern Baja. As you take chances and decide to surf somewhere that people aren’t Instagramming, you can get some really good waves. Even in spring you can find places that are really good. 

What else is there to do when you’re not surfing?

You’ve got some of the world’s best fishing grounds, so make sure you get a fishing permit. There’s great paddling, diving and hiking. But I think really a lot of folks go down there and get into the fishing when they’re not surfing. You have to contact the Mexican consulate either in San Diego or Los Angeles, and while a lot of guys don’t get permits, you really don’t want to be caught without one. And when it comes to lobsters and shellfish, the rights to those fishing grounds are all owned by somebody, so you if take a lobster or some shellfish you’re taking food from somebody’s family. It’s about karma. And the reality is, if you’re nice to people and you share, the chances are somebody’s going to walk up to your tent or car with a bucket full of lobster or shellfish. 

What’s your favorite local cuisine?

Let’s make it clear right now, the restaurants in Tijuana, Ensenada and Valle De Guadalupe are arguably some of the best restaurants in North America. Famous chef/surfer Javier Plascencia and others have done an amazing job of taking the food of fish camps and ranches into restaurants. But if you’re on the road, every region has it’s thing. So, if you’re at Punta Abreojos you’re going to get fresh sashimi. If you’re at San Ignacio Lagoon north of Scorpion Bay you’re going to get scallop ceviche. That’s the thing, if you’re hanging out with the locals, you’re going to be eating the food you pay $100 for at a restaurant in Valle De Guadalupe—and you’re going to eat it in a dusty fish camp. It’s pretty remarkable how amazing the food is if you’re really dialed into fish camp and fishing culture. And there’s really great food down in San Jose Del Cabo and the whole Cape region, there’s been this really amazing renaissance of authentic Baja food culture there. But among them all, all the longtime Baja surfers and Baja 1,000 guys know, that you have to go to El Trailero in Ensenada. That’s the full-on Northern Baja taco spot. 

Where can people learn to surf? Any surf schools you’d recommend?

Ensenada is a good place to start. And, of course, Cabo. Say what you will about Cabo, but the ocean is still magical there and you’re always going to get waves. It’s always worth a trip. The water’s warm and it’s gorgeous. And regardless of all the overdevelopment, the surf spots are open. It’s the Honolulu of Baja, right? And you can still get waves. 

What are some things people should be aware of when it comes to local culture and customs?

There’s a traditional wave that you give when you’re driving down the road. It’s the same kind of casual, friendly wave that you people in places like Wyoming or Montana or West Texas use. When you’re on dirt roads, wave to everybody. Say hi to everybody. Because that might be the guy comes to help you out. Just go out of your way to be extra friendly. It’s amazing what a big smile and “buenos dias” can do. When you think about it, friendship and social connection are lifelines. Nobody has any money, so they survive by being friends with people and helping each other. Surfers that plug into that, that “onda" vibe, which is kind of like karma, they’re the ones that score. Whether that’s food, friendship, experiences or surf, in Baja you carry your own onda with you.   

Any other local tips?

The reality is, there’s a security issue in Baja, just like there is anywhere in the world. But the big one is don’t drive at night. Just be extra cautious. It’s really important to be aware of your surroundings. But I’ll say it again, just don’t drive at night. It’s going to reduce your risk of problems a lot. Don’t flash your money. Don’t go get drunk at places with sketchy people. There’s no benefit to that.