West Oz
Western Australia has a third of the continent's total area yet houses less than 10 percent of the country's total population. This place has space. Surfing started in Perth in the 1950s before surfers realized the swell was blocked to the city beaches by Rottnest Island nine miles offshore. In the 1960s, they started venturing south, eventually discovering the waves south of Cape Naturaliste. Once they saw the potential of the Margaret River region, they never left. Since then, so much more of this region’s huge (2200-km/1600-mile) coastline has been revealed — yet so much still remains to be explored.
The Waves
North Point
You've probably seen pics of this place. It's one of the most photogenic in the region. Popularised when the CT moved the Margs comp here on a firing day. There are two sections: the outside pit, which looks reasonably makeable from the take-off, then the shallow inside section. Making both takes a lot of skill. Don't want to risk it? Join the crowds on the point and enjoy the action.
Margaret River
A couple of lefts here during a solid six to eight-foot swell will be burnished on your brain for decades. Paddling with the pack towards an incoming set and realizing that you are best-positioned to spin and take off is one of the most amazing feelings you will ever have as a surfer. The drop looks heavy and the wall looks long, but cast your doubts aside and go. At this size, the wave gives you an extra moment or two before it pitches, by which time you will be at the bottom, lining up one of the smoothest, fastest turns you will ever do along a solid face, even when it's onshore. If you're lucky, you'll follow this with a pit through the inside section. As for the righthander, one look at it from the car park will tell you all you need to known: don't ride too close to the dry reef on the inside. If there's a set behind when you pull out, you're in trouble. Ending a session here is fun, too. Keep cutting back into the whitewater, and you can ride along the edge of the reef for a couple of hundred meters, doing the little hotdog turns the waves outside wouldn't let you. br> LOCAL RESOURCES: Southwest Australia Surfrider | Margaret River Boardriders | Margaret River Surf Lifesaving Club
Yallingup
Well worth surfing over four-foot, and best when it's six-foot-plus. At that size, there's nowhere to hide when long-line sets charge into the lineup, mowing down anyone caught too far inside. You won't hit the bottom (unless you're caught inside on the righthander), but the undiluted power of the place is going to hold you down for a while. But sit far enough out and have the ability to catch one of these beasts, and you will find yourself in command of a long, charging wall, peeling easily into a long, deep channel on the left, or throwing fast sections on the right, which eventually closes out in front of dry reef. For intermediate surfers, this is the safest way to get a taste of pure power. You don't need a lot of skill to keep up with the left, but you'll still get a chance to bury a rail on a serious bottom turn if you want to. Advanced surfers known that if Yal's is on, there is some seriously better gear going down elsewhere.
Injidup Carpark
One of the main factors here is the crowd. Locals from Yallingup, and a few from Gracetown and Margaret's, descend on it like flies when it's on (which is often). Jostling in the take-off zone can get a bit frisky. If you're not into that, sit a bit wide and pick off the occasional set wave that leaves the pack too deep, scrounge the smaller insiders, or go the left, which isn't as good as the right but still fun.Wrangle a decent set wave and you'll learn what the fuss is about. This wave is one of the best around. There's a tight but makeable pit on low tide, and a wall that will give you two or three big hits before you play your cadenza on the closeout near the shore. When it's medium size, it's got the feel of a slightly serious beachbreak. When it's big, it assumes the full southwest WA menace. Either way, it's a reliable right-hander, picks up any swell that's going and doesn't vary much from tide to tide.If it's too crowded, have a look a bit further afield. Big southwest swells can wrap into the point, where there is a long left. But it gets a bit shifty, and there's a rock shelf in the middle that can catch you by surprise.
Smiths Beach
This is the southwest coast's original ledge, a left and a right. Back when the region was known for its long, walling waves like Margaret's and Yallingup, surfers looking to avoid the crowds started pushing their boards over this shelf at high tide and reaping the rewards with high-speed top turns, barrels or just a fast, smooth slingshot across the dredging reef. That's because there's a sweet spot in the reef that gives a good surfer an early drop into the wave before the whole thing jacks up. It's not deep enough to be a backdoor, but it can set you on an amazing line. It's okay on low tide if it's less than three-feet, any bigger and you'll have to wait for the incoming. The bank next to the reef rarely disappoints. Once you clear the spooky, dark shallows over the reef and hit the clear, emerald green of the sandy channel, you'll be so stoked that you're likely to throw down a big hack, just to celebrate. And the closing section on the inside offers big hits to anyone prepared to do a couple of duck-dives to get back out.
Scarborough
In winter, when the onshores blow for more than a couple of days, this beach can crank. SW swells have some shadow from Rottnest Island but when waves wrap in past the contential shelf, they hit Scarborough's relatively steep banks, they can pack a punch.Most of the time, though, it's an average beachbreak, albeit one with banks spread along a couple of kilometers (the whole stretch goes from Brighton in the south, to Scabs, Contacio, and Trigg). This is Perth's equivalent of Manly, in Sydney.
Gas Bay
Get a taste of the spirit of adventure for which this area was once known. Gas Bay is at the end of a narrow road south of Margaret's. Once you've parked, you need to walk a fair way across a sandy bay and over the rocks on the far side. It's a bit of a hike, but with each step, the feeling that you're leaving the crowds and conveniences of lesser urban breaks behind, and reacquainting yourself with something a bit freer, grows.The wave is a right-hander with a super-sucky take-off over rocks followed by a sandbank going to the beach. Getting shacked is a doddle for naturals, and not too hard for skilled goofies either.The other right-hander in the area is Grunters, which is on the point near the car park. It handles anything from 4- to 8-foot. Some of its sections pack a lot of power, although on any given day it's not quite as heavy as Margaret's main break.
Gnaraloo
Like most classics, no one was ever going to be able to keep Gnaraloo a secret. One hundred miles north of Carnarvon, the wave is a quarter-mile long left-hander that features outrageously shallow step-filled barrels and endless rippable walls. And all before the watchful eye of hundreds of sharks. You're a long way from medical help here, so pack well, surf sensibly, and keep your eyes on your buddies.
Jake's Point
A six-hour drive north of Perth is Kalbarri, home to the jacking lefthander Jake's Point. One of those idiosyncratic waves that are absolutely owned by the local surfers, unless you're at WCT level or you've come from Teahupo'o, you won't dominate or even catch sets on a good day. Like most reefs, Jake's breaks from two foot upwards. And the tough fisherfolk who populate this picturesque desert town don't want to touch it when it gets small.
If you want fun smaller surf, summer is for you. Otherwise, winter means bigger boards and thicker wetties.
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Southwest Australia According To...
Imogen
Caldwell
Hard-charging Aussie freesurfer breaks down the wild west.
What makes Western Australia a special destination for surfers?
There's an abundance of waves, a good range—big or small—there’s something to suit everyone.
What kind of waves can visiting surfers expect?
Obviously, it depends on the weather, swell and such…but generally, the waves on the West Coast are quite powerful compared to the East Coast of Australia.
What’s the vibe—crowded, mellow, aggressive, friendly?
All of the above. Depends on which location you go to. Some spots are heavily localized, others are not.
What should surfers bring?
A lot of boards because you'll probably break a few. Everything from a big-wave board to a groveler depending on what kind of waves you’re after.
When is the best time to score?
If you want fun smaller surf, summer is for you. Otherwise, winter means bigger boards and thicker wetties. I hear O'Neill do the best cold-water suits.
What else is there to do when you’re not surfing?
WA has so much to offer. Exploring the state would take you a lifetime.
What’s your favorite local cuisine?
The Indian Ocean is rich in seafood. We eat a lot of fish and crayfish.
Where can people learn to surf?
Most of the surf schools are in Perth but you can find them in the southwest region as well.
What are some things people should be aware of when it comes to local culture and customs?
Be respectful and wait your turn.
What’s the number one thing folks should keep in mind when traveling through the area?
Kangaroos are on steroids over here, especially at dawn and dusk.
Any other local tips?
When it’s solid, don't be a hero. Surf within your ability.
Travel Essentials
Culture & customs
West Oz is a place of extremes – from the widespread natural beauty (blending both fiery red deserts and crystalline blue oceans) to the wildlife (kangaroos, dolphins, whales and, yes, sharks) to the waves (big, heavy, dangerous) to the extracurricular activities (some of the best wine tasting in the world, coupled with any adventurous activity you can think of). And yet, conversely, the people are quiet, humble, easy-going…but there’s still a wild side to ‘em. Many folks in this part of the country are working-class – hence the humble mentality – yet they surf with power and confidence required for their homeland’s caliber of waves.
Local scene
It’s difficult to grasp the variety of surf zone and coastal breadth of this region. There are city beaches in Perth, with smaller waves and plenty of people hoping to ride them when they show. There’s the temperate forest coasts of the Margaret River region, with its many reefs and beach-breaks, and waves of every possible kind. Then there’s the long range desert surf zones to the north — big, broad, and epic, many of which are campsite only. This means a huge variety among the surfing populations of each, which is part of the beauty of the place. One thing’s for sure, you’ll see a lot of great surfers wherever you go, most of them won’t be famous, and pretty much all will be friendly and open for conversation with a visitor.
What to bring
Given the power and nature of the waves, you’ll need a mix of normal shortboards, step-ups and guns. Board breakage is an everyday occurrence, so you’ll need a bigger quiver than usual. The water isn’t warm or cold, so a 3/2 steamer is the wetsuit most in use during the prime autumn months.
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How to get there
West Oz is a massive chunk of a massive country. It encompasses nearly a third of Australia as a whole, so you're gonna need some wheels. After flying into Perth, it’s about a three-hour drive south to the surf haven of Margaret River. If you’re headed north, it’s around a six-hour drive to Kalbarri, maybe nine to Red Bluff, and a whopping 11 hours to Gnaraloo. If you’re going to move around outside of Perth or the Margaret River hub – which you totally should — have your playlists, podcasts, or books on tape all queued up for the rugged drive.
Downtime
The fertile southwest corner is home to the Margaret River wine region, and a tour of the world-renowned wineries is a must. In the far north, the Kimberley region is home to ancient First Nation people's rock art, the Bungle Bungle sandstone domes, Broome, Cable Beach camels and the pearling industry. Near the desert waves of Red Bluff and Gnaraloo is Ningaloo Marine Park, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed reef where you can swim with whale sharks, manta rays, turtles and humpback whales. The capital of Perth, based on the Swan River, adds the only element of cosmopolitan sophistication to this otherwise all-natural state.
Quick Tips
Travel Time
LAX: 19 hrs
JFK: 24 hrs
Heathrow: 18.5 hrs
SYD: 5.5 hrs
Connectivity
WiFi available at coffee shops, hotels, and businesses in populated places like Margaret River. But once you venture off into the wilds of West Oz, be prepared to go off-the-grid.
Currency
Australian Dollar. At the time of writing, $1 USD = 1.41 AUD
Avg. cost of...
Cup of coffee: $3.00
Lunch: $15.00
Beer: $7.00
Hotel room: $100.00
Visa Requirements
Yes. A visa is required to visit Australia for 90 days or less. A fee may be applicable depending on what type of travel you intend to do (business or holiday) and how long you plan to stay.
Drinking water quality
Some of the cleanest in the world.
Hazards
Encounters with wildlife (watch out for the kangaroos), bumpy dirt roads, localism, paddling out in conditions beyond your ability, breaking all your boards.
Cash, card, crypto
Credit cards are widely accepted, and access to ATMs is available…until you drive off-the-grid.
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