Southwest France
Southwest France is known for, among other things, fine wine, delicious food and centuries of history and architecture. Couple all that with lime-green beachbreak barrels spitting close enough to the shore to drench avid beachgoers, and you’ve got the potential for the surf trip of a lifetime.
The Waves
La Graviere
In the heart of Hossegor lies one of the world's top-rated beachbreaks, Graviere. In decent westerly swells, La Graviere produces serious, heavy, hollow, sand-charged pits up to 12-foot that take no prisoners. Summer sees everyone paddling out in fun Hossegor surf, and boogies playing in the shoredump. Rips can be arm-destroying, the shorebreak board-destroying, and the closeouts soul-destroying. But also expect some of the best, most accessible barrels you will ever experience.
Biarritz
A chic stretch of sand in downtown Biarritz, this can indeed be a Grande Plage. In clean, medium sized swells the beach can produce excellent, walling, occasionally hollow waves, especially at lower tides - the rocky outcrops to the south and swirling currents helping to sculpt consistent banks fought over by the large, local crew. It can of course also churn out slow, fat rollers – such is the beachbreak roll of the dice. Works through the tides but mid to low is best, the southern casino end is usually busiest but the beach can hold a crowd.
Lacanau
Lacanau utilises every passing swell, transforming them - with the aid of a few well-placed groins - into miles of quality, often-barreling beachbreak. This area usually has less surf than Hossegor to the south. However the autumn is the gravy season, when the banks come alive under an onslaught of consistent longer-period swells.
Lafitenia
The sheltered bay of Lafitenia on southwest France's Basque coastline is home to a classic right-hand point that can reel for up to 250 yards. In big northwest swells the lineup shifts around over the sand-covered rock reef creating an unpredictable, and heavy takeoff. After making the drop, it's all about generating speed and working your line with classic carving turns as the wall races through the mid-section. The inside then hollows out to create a nice little cover-up opportunity. This spot is always busy, especially during the summer months, but the payoff is definitely worth the wait. There is a huge point on the opposite side of the bay called Peyo's Left.
Le Culs Nuls
This long stretch of scalloped golden sand has earned a reputation as the best beachbreak in Europe, and one of the best in the world, for its tubes. Thick, meaty shorebreak barrels that'll leave you picking sand out of various orifices for weeks after a solid session. There's a huge trench offshore, not unlike Black's in San Diego, so the swell gets focused on the few miles of sand that make up Hossegor. But the tides in France are extreme (they can vary by 20 feet) and the sandbank that you surf in the morning will probably be a closeout shorepound by lunch. It's also prone to Atlantic flat spells.
Anglet
From Les Cavaliers' barrels at the north end to VVF's wedging lefts at the south end and all the various peaks in between, Anglet is one of the most consistent spots in Southwest France. While almost never as big as Hossegor, it's also not as wind-sensitive. Les Cavaliers can hold a NW wind. While VVF's stays relatively clean in a SW.
Les Estagnots
This stretch of beach has an excellent reputation for producing quality, consistent banks. Can produce long walls at low and hollow, fast waves at high when the shorebreak can be punishing, especially when the size picks up. Can handle a bit more swell than the breaks just to the north.
Guethary
The wave at Guethary can be quite deceiving. From the park benches at the west end of town, you look out at what seems to be a clean and mushy right-hand peak breaking into a clearly marked channel, as if Sunset Beach moved to San Onofre. But reality kicks in mid-paddle as you start to realize it's out there.The outside peak is a few hundred yards from the rocky shoreline and it shifts around, turning those peaks that seemed so easy and makeable from the cliff top into roguish A-frames stalking around the lineup just waiting to catch you inside. And if you try to go left on a big day, be prepared to inhale a whole bunch of Atlantic Ocean.Guethary is all about long, drawn-out bottom turns and swooping cutbacks and carves. Like Sunset, it's more of a thinking-person's wave, and the lineup tends to reflect that level of salt-watery sophistication.After the initial big bottom turn/cutback, the wave will either back off again, allowing another carving combo, or begin to wall up across the bay and demand some serious high speed lines toward the inside section. When it connects properly, you'll be using more of your rail in one wave than you would in an entire session at Hossegor.
There are many different waves, from the heavy barrels of Hossegor to the small barrels of Cul Nus. If you just want to cruise on a fun, long pointbreak, you can go to the Basque Country. There’s something for everyone.
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Southwest France According to...
Joan
Duru
French pro and former CT competitor offers insight on his home stretch.
What makes Southwest France a special destination for surfers?
If you come during the good season, you can surf every day. There are many different waves, from the heavy barrels of Hossegor to the small barrels of Culs Nuls. You can get rippable lefts in the afternoon with the north wind, and if you just want to cruise on a fun, long pointbreak, you can go to the Basque Country. There’s something for everyone.
What’s the vibe?
It’s changed a lot since COVID-19. Many people from big towns and other countries have come to live near Hossegor. Real estate has become so expensive that locals can no longer buy homes in the area. There are many people surfing now, and it’s hard to find empty waves, but nobody is really aggressive. There isn’t really any localism. Maybe that’s why things have gotten out of control [laughs]!
What should surfers bring?
Bring a fun shortboard and a good barrel board. I love riding a quad — perfect for paddling and holds well in the tube.
When is the best time to score?
October is the best time, but there are also little windows in the middle of a freezing winter. That being said, it’s hard to find those windows. You never know what you’re going to get in France. The forecast could be perfect, but there could be fog. Or no banks. Or the swell’s too W and it’s closed out.
What else is there to do when you’re not surfing?
The food is so good here — and the wine, of course. Landes Forest is amazing. It’s still wild, there’s a small lake, and the trail is incredible. I love to go mountain biking there. In fact, just bring your bike instead of your surfboard. Or, you can go to Spain for tapas and txuleta.
What’s your favorite local cuisine?
Duck breast, but you have to know how to cook it properly.
Where can people learn to surf?
The best place to learn how to surf is with the Cloarec brothers. They’re former pro surfers based in Penon.
Travel Essentials
Culture & customs
Nestled in the corner left pocket of the country – nearly 500 miles from Paris and at the apex of the Bay of Biscay bordering Spain’s Basque Country – Southwest France is a slice of well-traveled paradise where you’ll find all your stereotypical French scenes: fur-coated cigarette-smoking matrons walking tiny poodles, golden hour café culture and unabashed nudity on white-sand beaches. You’ll also find a thriving surf culture. Downtown Hossegor is a certified surf city, with a range of shops from the Quiksilver megastore to smaller boutiques. The French are a proud people; and that translates to the water, too, so visitors must respect the locals who put in the time at their beloved, thumping beachbreaks.
Local scene
Unless you’re prepared to walk (the beach extends about 130 miles north of Hossegor, but with few access points) or don some serious rubber (winter water temps hover in the mid to high 40s), you’ll be dealing with other surfers, just like in any other country with good surf. The crowds you’ll come across in season (June-October) are a wildly eclectic mix, from traveling pros to talented locals to feral, six-to-a-van, parking lot dwellers. Sometimes it seems like everyone in Europe has ended up in Southwest France, particularly in August when the lineups are littered with all manners of surf craft and ability level. However, if you can avoid the all-night party scene that sucks in so many and hit the surf at dawn, you could be sharing silky barrels with just a few other hearty souls.
What to bring
Select any weapon from your quiver: longboards (Biarritz is best for those), shortboards (on its day, Hossegor offers some of the best beachbreak barrels in the world), step-ups and even guns (Guethary offers legit, open-ocean, Hawaiian-style power) – all boards are welcome, somewhere. If you need gear, you can find pretty much anything you’ll need in Biarritz or Hossegor’s many surf shops. France ain’t cheap, though.
Also: Our amazing partners over at FCS have curated a collection of fine products for your next surf trip. Check it here.
How to get there
Biarritz Airport will drop you right in the thick of it, Bordeaux Airport’s a bit further north. Renting a car is your best bet for exploring the whole zone and hunting for uncrowded peaks. Cars are a little different in Europe – typically on the smaller side – so get a vehicle with a little more legroom that can accommodate your boards and gear. That will also allow you to take cat naps between sessions, or even spend the night at a spot you’ve clicked with. Southwest France has several beachside camping options.
Downtime
This is France, one of the cultural centers of the world. Wining, dining and romance are all on the docket. Indulge in the art scene, watch live music, lean into the magical cafe culture of the area. If your wine hangover isn't too bad in the morning, rent a kayak and paddle around the lake just northeast of Hossegor. Also, it can get maddeningly flat for weeks on end, so if you’re looking for an adrenaline rush, head to one of the bridges over the river and spend the day working on your half-gainers.
Quick Tips
Travel Time
LAX: 12 hrs
JFK: 8 hrs
Heathrow: 1.5 hrs
SYD: 35 hrs+
Connectivity
Cell reception is pretty prevalent in most of Europe’s well-trodden locations. And so is WiFi at hotels, coffee shops, etc. But, if you wanna be fully connected all the time, you’ll probably want to talk with your provider before taking off, so that you can adjust your plan accordingly.
Currency
Euro. At the time of writing, $1 USD = 0.96 EUR
Avg. cost of...
Cup of coffee: $3.50
Lunch: $15.00
Beer: $6.00
Hotel room: $200.00
Visa Requirements
No payment necessary for a visit three months or less.
Drinking water quality
Tap water is considered safe to drink in France.
Hazards
Board-snapping beachbreaks, distracting nudity on the beach, passionate European locals, wine and cheese food comas.
Cash, card, crypto
Most major credit cards are widely accepted in France. A little bit of cash, as always, is a good idea to have on you, too. ATMs are easy to find.
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